In this article we discuss the many of the 3D printing problems you may encounter when working with FDM, as well as their common causes and helpful fixes.

How to Solve Common 3D Printing Problems

<p id="isPasted">No one wants to spend more money than necessary on parts development. Customers often think their choice of material has the biggest effect on cost, but while material does have some influence, the main cost drivers for additive parts are build time and finishing time.&nbsp;</p><p>There are several design factors that affect build time, finishing time, or both. By factoring these considerations into your design, you can minimise the cost of your parts and improve overall part quality.</p><p><img width="458" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MTkzLTE3MTUxNTMwODcxOTMucG5nIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></p><p><em>A variety of factors can affect the cost of your parts and should be considered carefully in the design phase.</em></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>What is Build Time?</strong></p><p>For all of Protolabs’ <a href="https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/services/3d-printing/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-factors-to-consider-3dp-cost-0524" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">additive manufacturing</a> technologies, build time is split into two categories: draw time and recoat time. Draw time is the time it takes to sinter, melt, or cure the <a href="https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/materials/3d-printing/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-factors-to-consider-3dp-cost-0524" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">material</a>. It covers how long it takes for the laser to draw the cross section of each layer and is driven by the total volume of the build, including supports if applicable.</p><p>After the draw is done, the recoater blade travels across the build to distribute the next layer of raw material. The time it takes for the recoater blade to travel across the platform and back is typically a matter of seconds and will vary based on the size of the machine. The amount of recoat time is directly related to the height of the part in its optimal orientation. However, those seconds add up when you’re talking hundreds of layers-worth of recoat for every inch of build height.</p><p>If you were designing parts for machining, you would want to avoid removing material unless absolutely necessary because more cuts mean more cost. When designing for 3D printing, the mindset is the opposite; you only want to add material for the model if the material is critical, because more <em>material</em> means more cost.</p><p><strong>Draw: Part Volume</strong></p><p>Part volume is a common factor that can drive the price up unnecessarily. The consideration should be your overall part volume and how much of that volume is critical to fit, form, or function. Below is a 127mm x 50.8mm x 76.2mm block where the critical features are channels. The ends of the part are also important because they help align the part in the assembly. This part is very high volume, but not all of that volume is critical to the function of the part. On the revised version, the channels are maintained as well as either end of the part. However, the rest of the material boxing in the channels has been removed, leaving about 2.54mm. of wall thickness for the channels. This reduces the part volume by 80% and can reduce the cost of the part by 50-60% depending on technology.</p><p><img border="0" width="390" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MjAyLTE3MTUxNTMwODcyMDIuanBlZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" alt="Part Rendering" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></p><p><em>During the design phase, removing material that isn't necessary can often maintain strength, but it's also likely to speed up your build times.</em></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Another way to reduce material volume is to shell the part. This is best suited to <a href="https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/resources/design-tips/designing-for-selective-laser-sintering/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-factors-to-consider-3dp-cost-0524" title="Designing for Selective Laser Sintering" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">selective laser sintering (SLS)</a> and <a href="https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/resources/design-tips/how-to-use-multi-jet-fusion-for-functional-3d-printed-parts/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-factors-to-consider-3dp-cost-0524" title="How to Use Multi Jet Fusion for Functional 3D-Printed Parts" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Multi Jet Fusion (MJF)</a> since these do not require support structures. Additionally, since these processes see more heat than the other additive technologies, reducing volume will result in a higher quality part, because it avoids dimensional inaccuracies caused by material shrinkage. Below is an example of a 101.6mm x 101.6mm x 50.8mm organiser tray. The original model is very high-volume. The other two versions show different ways to reduce material.</p><p>The first method is to use ribs or honeycombs to maintain the structure and rigidity of the part, but also to remove any excess material. This method reduces the volume by 30% and reduces the cost by 20%.</p><p>If the rigidity of the part is less critical, you can hollow out the part instead. For this example part in the third column, hollowing reduces the volume by 36% and reduces the cost by 26%. Note that material should be reduced in a way that keeps the geometry open, to allow for complete removal of unsintered/unfused powder after the build. Sealed off cavities should be avoided.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img border="0" width="426" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MjE1LTE3MTUxNTMwODcyMTUucG5nIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></p><p><em>As noted above, hollowing out your part, as indicated in the third column images, can speed production times and also offer a way to remove unused metal or plastic powder.</em></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Recoat: Part Orientation</strong></p><p>Recoat time is the second factor that drives build time and therefore cost. The recoat time is driven by the height of the build, but this isn’t necessarily based on the extents of the part. The build height is based on the height of the part in its optimal orientation. The optimal orientation will vary based on geometry, but generally, if the part can be designed to build in a shorter orientation it will be less expensive. You see this especially with stereolithography (SLA) and <a href="https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/resources/design-tips/designing-for-direct-metal-laser-sintering/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-factors-to-consider-3dp-cost-0524" title="How to Design and Manufacture Metal 3D-Printed Parts" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">direct metal laser sintering (DMLS)</a> since these technologies use support structure, which plays a significant role in choosing build orientation.</p><p>Here's a part that needs to be built in metal using DMLS. The first design iteration has channels that are too wide to build horizontally without requiring internal supports that will be trapped inside. However, changing the cross section of the channels to a self-supporting tear drop shape allows the part to build in the shorter, second orientation below. This small change reduces the cost by 18%.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img border="0" width="419" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MjI1LTE3MTUxNTMwODcyMjUuanBlZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" alt="part rendering" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></p><p><em>Changes in print orientation can help you choose alternative channel shapes, potentially speeding build times.</em></p><p><em>&nbsp;</em></p><p><strong>Finishing Time and Strategies to Reduce It</strong></p><p>When it comes to SLA and DMLS—the technologies requiring supports—finishing time is all about reducing the number of supports. This consideration goes hand-in-hand with build time because fewer supports means less time spent drawing, and later, removing them. Cutting down on finishing time is another way to shave off cost. Both technologies use supports that are made of the same material as the parts themselves.</p><p>For SLA, supports are removed easily; they can simply be plucked off by hand. After removing the supports, small braille-like bumps remain that get sanded down by our finishing team. Because support removal is relatively simple, having more of them doesn’t drive cost up as much when compared to metal supports with DMLS. However, if you’re looking at hundreds of parts, a few extra minutes of finishing time per part can add up.</p><p>On the other hand, supports on DMLS parts are more robust and can’t be removed by hand. These supports are cut off using rotary tools. For larger parts, we’ll even use a manual mill to help with the bulk removal of supports. Once the supports are cut off, the remaining burrs get ground and sanded down. Since the support removal process for DMLS is much more involved than SLA, reducing the number of supports will have the biggest effect on DMLS parts.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img border="0" width="430" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MjM1LTE3MTUxNTMwODcyMzUuanBlZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" alt="part rendering" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></p><p><em>Designing support structures that are more consistent with additive manufacturing best practices can save you considerable time and money</em></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This 127mm tall pipe with flanges is a great example of a part that will have a large support volume because supports need to grow from the bottom flange all the way to the top flange to ensure it forms correctly. However, if the application for this part allows, it could be redesigned by reducing unnecessary material from the flange and adding some material so that the flanges grow in at a self-supporting 45-degree angle from the build plate.</p><p>Making this small change reduces the finishing time required from 3 hours per part to just 30 minutes and results in a 50% cost reduction! The image above shows both versions of the part, as well as the extent of supports that the first version requires versus the second version that was designed for additive manufacturing.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Final Thoughts</strong></p><p>Additive manufacturing is a highly geometry-dependent process and strategies that work for one part or technology may not work for another part or technology. This article provides general guidelines on reducing cost and the examples featured were specifically created to demonstrate these guidelines. When it comes to applying these concepts, we’re more than happy to help. You can call our application engineering team at +44 (0) 1952 683047 and we will discuss your specific project with you and provide part-specific suggestions for reducing cost.</p><p><a href="https://explore.protolabs.com/design-tips-registration/?utm_source=wevolver&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=wevolver-design-tip-subscribe-banner-0524" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Subscribe for monthly design tips!</a></p><p><a href="https://explore.protolabs.com/design-tips-registration/?utm_source=eureka&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=uk-design-tip-0524&utm_content=eureka-knowledge-design-tip-subscribe-banner-0524" target="_blank"><img border="0" width="602" src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzE1MTUzMDg3MjUzLTE3MTUxNTMwODcyNTMucG5nIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" alt="A close-up of a subscribeDescription automatically generated" class="fr-fic fr-dii"></a></p><p>&nbsp;</p>

Build time, finishing time, supports, and part volume are all a variety of factors that can affect the pricing of a part. By factoring these considerations into your design, you can minimise the cost of your parts and improve overall part quality. 

How Much Does 3D Printing Cost? Key Factors to Consider

Here's how to address extruder skipping on the Creality Ender 3 3D printer.

Here’s what to do if you notice clicking noises, under-extrusion, or other print quality issues caused by extruder skipping on the Ender 3 by Creality.

Ender 3 (V2,Pro) Extruder Skipping: Ender 3 not Extruding?

Elephant foot is a common 3D printing issue

3D printing elephant foot is a common issue that most 3D printer users will have experienced. Typically caused by excessive heat or poor nozzle calibration, the issue can be solved in several ways.

Troubleshooting the 3D Printing Elephant Foot Phenomenon

Thermoplastic filament is just one type of 3D printing material

From low-cost plastic filament to engineering-grade titanium powder, the range of available 3D printing materials is wider than ever. Here we look at the key material categories.

Types of 3D Printing Materials and How They Form Backbone of Additive Manufacturing

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">FDM 3D printing is certainly not a silent process: it is perfectly normal for your 3D printer to whirr and even buzz as the printhead moves and filament is extruded onto the build surface. In fact, desktop 3D printers can produce up to 50 decibels of sound when in operation—similar to the amount of noise a relatively quiet fridge produces.[1] However, if you start to notice clicking sounds that seem to be interrupting the regular hum of your machine, then you could be dealing with a problem.</p><p dir="ltr">Unfortunately, if your 3D printer extruder starts to make a clicking noise, it’s not just your ears that will be bothered. Clicking is indicative of a bigger problem, which can compromise overall 3D print quality. A clicking extruder can be a sign of filament extrusion inconsistencies, such as under extrusion or a clogged nozzle. In this article, we’ll be covering the many possible causes of a clicking extruder and how to troubleshoot them. You’ll find a quick look at the causes and fixes in the table below:</p><div dir="ltr" align="left"><table><tbody><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Causes of Extruder Clicking</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>How to Fix</strong></p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">Print temperature is too low</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Raise print temperature by increments of 5 °C until filament flows more smoothly</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">The nozzle position is too low or uneven</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Level the 3D printer bed using automated or manual techniques</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">The 3D printer nozzle is blocked</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Clear the nozzle using a thin wire, the cold pull method, or a dedicated cleaning filament.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">There is a PTFE tubing failure</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Regularly clean PTFE tube or replace it.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">The extruder spring tension is too low or too high</p><br></td><td><p dir="ltr">Gradually increase or decrease extruder spring tension using a screw or knob.&nbsp;</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">The idler wheel on a single-gear extruder is too tight</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Loosen the idler wheel until only small gear tooth marks are visible on the filament.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">The extruder motor is malfunctioning</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Add a heat sink to solve overheating or replace extruder motor if there are wiring issues.</p></td></tr></tbody></table></div><h2 dir="ltr">What causes extruder skipping and clicking</h2><p dir="ltr">The first step to fixing a clicking extruder is to figure out what’s causing it. The extruder is a critical component in the 3D printing process, responsible for feeding the filament into the hot end at a precise rate. The extruder motor drives a gear that grips the filament and pushes it through the hot end, where it is melted and deposited onto the build plate or previous layers. Proper extruder function is essential for maintaining a consistent flow of filament and ensuring optimal printing results.</p><p dir="ltr">In general, the extruder will start clicking or skipping if the extruder gears—which are responsible for feeding the filament into the hot end—struggle to do their job. The clicking noise itself comes from the stepper motor, which has to use greater force to turn the gears, and then compensates for the added force and subsequent pressure by skipping back.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">There are several culprits that can cause extruder gear issues. We’ll take you through the most common causes of extruder clicking and how to solve each one for more consistent print parts.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Low temperature</h3><p dir="ltr">Temperature plays a huge role in the 3D printing process: setting the print temperature too high can make the filament melt too quickly, causing issues like <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-stringing" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">oozing and stringing</a>. If the print temperature is too low, the filament won’t melt at a sufficient rate, which can lead to nozzle clogs. If the nozzle becomes clogged, the printer extruder will struggle to feed the filament through, which can ultimately lead to skipping.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Fortunately, there is an easy fix for this problem: all you have to do is gradually raise the print temperature—by about 5 °C—until the filament starts to flow more smoothly. It is also important to remember that each type of filament has an optimal print temperature. So if you’re working with <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">ABS</a> or <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/petg-temperature-considerations-nozzle-temperature-heated-bed-cooling" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">PETG</a> after having printed <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/pla-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">PLA</a>, you’ll need to adjust the print settings accordingly. For example, ABS requires a print temperature in the range of 220–250 °C, while PLA requires a lower print temperature in the range of 200–210 °C.&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">ABS print temperature considerations</a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">Low nozzle position</h3><p dir="ltr">When temperature doesn’t seem to be the issue but you are still experiencing extruder clicking from a partially clogged nozzle, nozzle height could be the reason. If the nozzle is positioned too close to the print bed, the filament won’t extrude onto the build surface properly because the nozzle will effectively be squishing it. Not only does this cause under extrusion for your prints, it also causes nozzle jams because the melted filament sticks to the outside of the nozzle.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">If you notice the combination of a clicking extruder and filament buildup on the outside of the nozzle, your best bet is to level your 3D printer bed. Some 3D printers have automatic bed leveling, but for those with manual machines, the easiest way to level your bed is to use a standard sheet of paper. Move the nozzle to one corner of the build plate and place a piece of paper under it, lower the nozzle until it just touches the paper (the paper won’t slide out, but will be able to move). Repeat this for every corner of the build surface.</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 758px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjc3NjY1MDIyODM3LW5vb3psZS5qcGciLCJlZGl0cyI6eyJyZXNpemUiOnsid2lkdGgiOjk1MCwiZml0IjoiY292ZXIifX19" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="3D printer nozzle"><span class="fr-inner">Clean your nozzle inside and out to ensure a consistent filament feed rate and minimize the risk of clicking.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Nozzle blockage</h3><p dir="ltr">If your 3D printer has become clogged for whatever reason, it can cause extruder clicking. If this happens, you will have to find the source of the blockage—such as adjusting the temperature, or tweaking print speed and retraction settings—but you will also have to unclog the nozzle. If you’re dealing with a partial clog (i.e. some filament is still flowing through), you can use a cleaning filament to remove the clog or a wire brush to clean filament buildup from the surface of the nozzle.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">If the nozzle is showing signs of a full clog, there are a few techniques that help to remove the blockage. You can insert a thin wire or needle (smaller than the diameter of your nozzle) into the heated nozzle to break up the filament. This will allow the debris to flow out and clear the block.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Another popular method to unclog a 3D printer nozzle is the cold pull. To do the cold pull, heat up the 3D printer extruder (to between 200-250 °C depending on the filament) and push a length of filament into the print head. You’ll then let the print head cool until the filament is solidified. After that, reheat the 3D printer to a lower temperature (115°C) and when it reaches 90 °C, rapidly yank the filament out of the extruder. The filament should have bonded with the buildup and been pulled out along with the filament.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-clean-3d-printer-nozzle" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">How to Clean 3D Printer Nozzles and Prevent Clogs</a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">PTFE tubing failure</h3><p dir="ltr">Bowden tube 3D printers rely on a PTFE tube to direct and feed filament into the print head. When the tubing system is working correctly, the filament should move through the tube seamlessly, without any friction. Extrusion problems can arise, however, if there is too much friction inside the bowden tube.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">There are a couple things that can be causing this friction. For one, a bowden tube that is too small for the filament diameter. In general, the bowden tube should be just marginally larger in diameter than your filament: you want it to move smoothly through the tube, but you also don’t want too much space for the filament to flex and bend. Secondly, any debris that builds up inside the tube, such as dust, can increase the friction. This can slow the filament down and create a buildup of pressure in the extrusion mechanism, leading to clicking.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">To ensure that the bowden tube is not causing any extrusion issues, clean it regularly by removing it from the 3D printer and pushing a small piece of cotton or sponge through the length of it using filament. If that doesn’t solve the friction problem, and your bowden tube appears to be dented or bent, you can always replace the tube.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/bowden-extruder" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">Direct Drive vs Bowden Extruder for 3D Printing</a></strong></p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 758px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjc3NjY1MTA4NjI2LTNkX3ByaW50ZXIuanBnIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="Bowden tube 3D printer"><span class="fr-inner">Friction build up inside a bowden tube can slow filament down, causing stepper motors to overcompensate and skip.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">&nbsp;Extruder spring tension</h3><p dir="ltr">In the FDM 3D printing process, filament is propelled through the extruder with the help of either a single gear or dual gears. The movement of the gears is powered by a stepper motor, but the extruder also relies on a certain degree of tension to ensure that the gears make contact with and grip the filament in order to feed it into the printhead at a reliable pace. This tension is created by the extruder spring.</p><p dir="ltr">If the extruder spring tension is too high, the gear teeth will press into the filament too much, causing filament deformation. The high tension can also impede the feed rate of the filament, which in turn causes the stepper motor to exert more force and even start to skip. The skipping motor is what creates the clicking sound in your extruder.</p><p dir="ltr">If the tension of the spring is too low, the extruder gears won’t sufficiently grip the filament, which will require the extruder to use greater force to feed the filament into the printhead. The added friction can lead to problems like filament degradation and grinding noises. [2] All that to say, finding the correct degree of tension for your extruder spring is vital to achieving the highest quality prints. On most 3D printers, spring tension can be adjusted using a screw or knob. You can always start by loosening the tension completely and gradually tightening it until clicking stops.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Idler wheel too tight</h3><p dir="ltr">This troubleshooting is applicable to single-gear extruders. The idler wheel, or idler roller, is a round bearing that helps to guide the filament along the single gear into the printhead. If the idler wheel is tightened too much, the result will be similar to high spring tension: the gear will start to crush the filament, which can lead to extrusion troubles and stepper motor skipping.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">You can tell your extruder’s idler wheel is well calibrated by checking the thermoplastic filament as it is threaded through. Small gear tooth marks on the filament’s surface are a good sign: they show the gears are making sufficient grip to move the filament at pace. If you notice any crushing or deformed filament, loosen the idler wheel tension slightly. This can help reduce the risk of clicking and failed prints.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Faulty extruder motor</h3><p dir="ltr">Another possible cause for extruder clicking is the stepper motor. If the stepper motor is poorly calibrated or is not connected to a reliable power source, it can result in filament feeding inconsistencies and, consequently, clicking. This issue is rarer than the aforementioned ones, so try adjusting your settings before making major hardware changes.</p><p dir="ltr">If you suspect a faulty stepper motor is behind your 3D printer problems, first check the motor’s wiring to make sure nothing is out of place. You might have to replace your printer’s motor if there are wiring problems. If you notice your stepper motor is overheating, adding a heat sink can help to mitigate the build up of heat and prolong the life of the motor. You can buy adhesive heat sinks to stick directly onto the extrusion mechanism. It’s worth bearing in mind that a heat sink will add weight to the extruder. In direct drive systems, this means your 3D printer’s motor will require more force to move the printhead across the build platform.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h2><p dir="ltr">Clicking noises from your 3D printer should be reason for concern. The noises indicate that something is amiss or not properly calibrated, and are more often than not linked to issues with print quality. Luckily most causes of extruder clicking have a straightforward solution. Here’s what we covered in this troubleshooting piece:</p><ul><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">One of the most common causes of extruder clicking is related to temperature settings. If the print temperature is too low, unmelted filament will start to clog the nozzle and prevent consistent filament feeding. Increase the print temperature gradually and unclog the nozzle to see if it helps.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Leveling the print bed and ensuring proper calibration can minimize the risks of nozzle jams and help solve extruder skipping.&nbsp;</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">If there is too much friction in your printer’s bowden tube, the stepper motor will have to exert more force to feed filament into the printhead. Clean the bowden tube frequently or replace it if it becomes dented.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Finding the optimal extruder spring tension and idler wheel tightness can promote a more consistent filament feed rate, which in turn reduces the risk of clicking, because the filament will keep up with the stepper motor.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Stepper motor failure is a rarer occurrence but can create clicking noises. If this is the case, you may have to replace your extruder’s stepper motor, or the extruder overall.</p></li></ul><h2 dir="ltr">Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)</h2><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Why is my 3D printer extruder clicking?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: There are several reasons an extruder could be making a clicking sound, including: incorrect print temperature, blocked nozzle, uneven print surface, bowden tube issue, and 3D printer hardware problems.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How do I know if extruder tension is too high?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: You can tell that the 3D printer extruder tension is too high by looking at the filament: if there is any deformation in the filament after it has passed through the extruder gear, the tension is too high. At the right tension, you should only be able to see faint gear marks on the filament surface.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Can I use a cleaning filament to unclog my nozzle?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Yes, using a cleaning filament or performing a cold pull can help remove clogs and debris from the nozzle. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific cleaning filament or cold pull technique to ensure safe and effective cleaning.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How do I know if my idler wheel is too loose or too tight?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Idler wheels are used in single-gear extruders, helping to guide the filament along the single gear into the hotend. The correct idler wheel tension should provide sufficient grip on the filament without causing deformation or excessive friction. To check the tension, gently squeeze the idler arm and observe if the filament is held securely against the drive gear. If the filament slips or the idler arm feels loose, adjust the tension accordingly.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How do I clean my 3D printer’s bowden tube?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: It is important to regularly clean bowden tubes to prevent buildup of dust. To clean the tube, simply push a small piece of cotton or sponge through the length of it using filament. If cleaning the tube doesn’t sufficiently minimize friction, and your bowden tube appears to be dented or bent, you should replace the tube.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: What to do if the stepper motor is overheating?</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: You can add a heat sink to your 3D printer’s stepper motor to reduce heat buildup throughout the printing process. However, if you suspect issues from the stepper motor are related to wiring, it is a good idea to replace it.</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] “What Is 50 Decibels Compared To Other dB”. Decibel Pro. Available from: <a href="https://decibelpro.app/blog/what-is-50-decibels/" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">https://decibelpro.app/blog/what-is-50-decibels/</a>&nbsp;</p><p>[2] “How to Set Extruder Tension”. CNC Kitchen. May 7, 2022. Available from: <a href="https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/how-to-set-extruder-tension" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/how-to-set-extruder-tension</a>&nbsp;</p>

A clicking extruder is an indication something is wrong with slicer settings or 3D printer calibration

Temperature, nozzle clogs, and spring tension are just some of the leading causes of a clicking extruder. Learn how to troubleshoot this 3D printing issue and ensure more consistent prints.

3D Printer Extruder Clicking Causes and How to Fix Them

Common lines in 3D prints include layer lines

Unwanted lines in 3D prints can show up for many reasons and take different forms. Here we look at the most common types of lines in 3D prints and how to eliminate them.

Lines in 3D Prints: How to Fix Them

When bed adhesion is too strong, certain removal processes can damage the print bed.

Here are some reliable tips to follow if your 3D print simply isn't coming off the print bed and how to prevent the issue in future.

3D Print Stuck to Bed: What to do?

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">If you notice that there are horizontal cracks in your 3D print or that layers seem to be coming apart, particularly in the middle of a build, you are likely dealing with a problem known as 3D printing layer separation (aka delamination). In the 3D printing process, delamination is caused by poor adhesion between the layers. In other words, as each new layer is deposited, something is preventing it from fusing properly to the preceding layer, which causes it to pull apart and crack as it dries. This phenomenon can have serious consequences for not only the appearance of 3D models but also part strength and structural integrity.</p><p dir="ltr">3D printing layer separation has similarities to <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-not-sticking-to-print-bed-heres-the-solution" target="_blank">first layer adhesion problems</a> (when the first layers of a build do not stick to the print bed <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/what-causes-3d-print-warping-and-how-to-prevent-it" target="_blank">resulting in warping</a>). For example, some of the primary causes of 3D printing layer separation are incorrect print temperature and under-extrusion. But there are also important differences between the two. In this article, we are diving into the common <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/tag/3d-printing-troubleshooting" target="_blank">3D printing problem and troubleshooting</a> delamination.&nbsp;</p><h2 dir="ltr">How to Improve Layer Adhesion</h2><p dir="ltr">There are a number of ways to improve layer adhesion and minimize the risk of 3D printing layer separation, ranging from adjusting print temperature and speed settings, to cleaning or changing nozzles, to playing with cooling settings. We outline each of these potential fixes below.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Increase print temperature</h3><p dir="ltr">One of the first steps to fixing delamination is to increase the print head temperature. If the print head isn’t hot enough for the type of material you are printing with, the filament won’t melt consistently, which can lead to under-extrusion and weak bonding between layers. A higher temperature will cause the filament to melt faster and result in a stronger filament flow through the nozzle. This in turn will encourage the filament layers to fuse together and create a stronger part.&nbsp;</p><p>Finding the correct print temperature depends entirely on the type of filament you are using. For example, PLA has a relatively low melting point and prints at a lower temperature than ABS. For PLA, we recommend starting off with a <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/pla-bed-temperature-print-temperature-settings" target="_blank">print temperature of about 210 °C</a>. If layer separation is occurring at this temperature, try increasing the hot end temperature by 5-10 degrees at a time. For ABS, the recommended range for <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-print-temperature-considerations-nozzle-bed-enclosure" target="_blank">nozzle temperature is 220–250 °C</a>. If you are still seeing delamination within this range, gradually increase the nozzle temperature to see if layer adhesion improves.</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 627px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjY1NDgxOTMyNjUwLTNkX3ByaW50ZXIuanBnIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" width="624" height="423" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="3D printer nozzle and blue print"><span class="fr-inner">If layers don't bond properly, it can result in cracking and structural weaknesses.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Clean the nozzle&nbsp;</h3><p dir="ltr">As we saw, 3D printing layer separation occurs when layers of filament do not properly bond to each other. This could be due to incorrect printing temperatures, but it can also be caused by inconsistencies in extrusion. If your nozzle is under-extruding, there won’t be enough thermoplastic filament to create strong adhesion between the layers. We therefore recommend checking your 3D printer’s hotend to make sure there isn’t any plastic or dust clogging the nozzle. If there is, <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-clean-3d-printer-nozzles-and-prevent-clogs" target="_blank">unclog the nozzle</a> and remove the blockage.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">There are a number of ways to clean your printer’s clogged nozzle. One of the simplest methods involves inserting a fine needle or wire (smaller than the nozzle’s diameter) into the heated nozzle tip to break up any debris. You can also purchase dedicated cleaning filament, which catches any blockages and pulls them through the hot end. Other cleaning methods include the cold pull and atomic pull techniques. If these methods are insufficient, it could be time to replace the nozzle entirely. Ultimately, a clean nozzle won’t just help solve layer separation, it can also improve other 3D printing issues, <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-stringing-how-to-fix-it" target="_blank">such as stringing</a>.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-clean-3d-printer-nozzles-and-prevent-clogs" target="_blank">How to Clean 3D Printer Nozzles and Prevent Clogs</a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">Decrease print speed</h3><p dir="ltr">Print speed, which refers to how quickly the printhead moves along the X and Y axes while depositing filament, has a significant impact on the quality of 3D printing.[1] While a fast print speed is often desirable, it also comes with an increased risk of issues like ringing, under-extrusion, and poor layer adhesion. These problems happen when the melting and extrusion rate of the filament can’t quite keep up with the printhead’s movement.</p><p dir="ltr">Decreasing the print speed can thus improve your 3D print outcomes. For regular prints, we recommend a print speed within the range of 50–60 mm/s. If you are experiencing delamination within this range, decrease the print speed by about 5 mm/s at a time. In general, the slower the print speed you use, the better the adhesion between layers and the stronger the final part will be. Additionally, the optimal print speed is highly dependent on the type of filament you are printing: PLA can handle faster printing speeds, while a material like TPU needs to be printed slowly (20 mm/s).</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-speed-what-it-is-and-why-it-matters" target="_blank">3D print speed: What it is and why it matters</a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust flow rate</h3><p dir="ltr">Another setting that can influence inter-layer adhesion is the flow rate, or extrusion multiplier. A parameter found in slicer programs like Cura, flow rate controls how quickly filament is fed into the hot end. In general, the flow rate is linked to the print speed, so if you increase or decrease the print speed, the flow rate should adjust automatically.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">If you’ve cleaned your 3D printer’s nozzle and have adjusted the print temperature and speed but are still seeing the signs of under-extrusion and poor layer adhesion, you can try adjusting the flow rate incrementally. When facing under-extrusion, you want to gradually increase the flow rate so that more material will flow through the nozzle. We should note, however, that increasing the flow rate too much can lead to other problems, namely over-extrusion and blobs.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Decrease cooling rate</h3><p dir="ltr">Layer delamination or layer splitting can also occur if the thermoplastic layers cool too quickly on the print bed and don’t have enough time to bond before the plastic solidifies. There are a couple strategies for slowing the cooling process down. For starters, using an enclosed build chamber will help ensure a more consistent print environment and slow down the filament’s rate of solidification. This not only gives each new filament layer more time to fuse with the previous layer, it can also reduce the risk of shrinking and warping. If your printer does not have an enclosure, you can make or buy one.[2]</p><p dir="ltr">If you are still seeing the signs of delamination, you can further decrease the cooling rate by lowering the printer’s cooling fan speed. We suggest doing this in increments—by 5 to 10% at a time—to see if it improves layer bonding. We should also point out that certain materials benefit from lower fan speeds, including ABS and PETG, while other materials, like PLA, can print well with a fan speed of 100%.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust layer height</h3><p dir="ltr">Decreasing the layer thickness in your slicer software can also help to improve layer adhesion and solve delamination. In general, the <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-nozzle-size" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">layer height measurement should be smaller than the nozzle diameter</a>.[2] This difference ensures that the nozzle puts a bit of pressure on each layer it deposits, gently squishing it and encouraging the thermoplastic to stick to the layer under it. If the layer height is too big, the surface area between the two layers will be smaller and have a weaker bond.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">When setting your layer height, it should be a maximum 80% of the nozzle diameter size. For example, if you are using a 0.4 mm nozzle, the maximum layer height should be 0.32 mm.[3] With this size of nozzle, 0.2 mm is a fairly standard layer height. If this layer height isn’t solving delamination, you can try decreasing it, but if you set your layer height too small you risk other problems, like thin layers and clogged nozzles.</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 627px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjY1NDgxOTYyOTk3LW5venpsZXMuanBnIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="3D printer nozzles"><span class="fr-inner">Increasing the nozzle diameter can improve inter-layer adhesion and reduce the risk of delamination.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Increase nozzle diameter</h3><p dir="ltr">Another effective tactic for combatting layer separation is to swap out your nozzle for one with a larger diameter. A wider nozzle diameter will allow more material to flow through onto the print bed, and will result in layers with a thicker width. The wider layers can improve layer adhesion thanks to the simple fact that there is a greater surface area for the next layers to stick to.</p><p dir="ltr">Most FDM 3D printers come equipped with a 0.4 mm nozzle, so that’s likely what you’re working with. It is possible to purchase and install smaller and larger nozzles: a smaller diameter nozzle (0.2 mm) will enable you to print finer details, while a larger diameter will encourage layer adhesion and strength and can increase print speeds (this will inevitably compromise precision and the quality of details). Larger nozzles are also less prone to clogging and are suitable for specialty filaments, like fiber-reinforced materials.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/nozzle-diameter-and-layer-height-explained" target="_blank">Nozzle diameter and layer height explained&nbsp;</a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">Proper filament storage</h3><p dir="ltr">The materials you are using to 3D print can also influence the quality of finished models, and bad quality of moisture-affected filaments can contribute to common 3D printing problems like delamination. Proper material storage and handling are therefore very important when it comes to FDM 3D printing. Hygroscopic filaments like PLA and nylon can absorb moisture from the air, which then evaporates when the filament is melted in the print head. The air bubbles created from the evaporating moisture trapped in the thermoplastic ultimately cause inconsistent extrusion, bubbling, and poor layer adhesion. To prevent this, filaments should be stored in airtight containers with desiccants. If you are concerned that your filament may have been exposed to moisture already, it is possible to dry it out before the printing. We have a <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-dry-filament" target="_blank">helpful guide on drying filament here</a>.</p><p dir="ltr">It is also a good idea to invest in high-quality filament from reputable manufacturers for consistent diameter, material properties, and minimal impurities. That’s because low-quality filament contains impurities or inconsistencies that can affect flow properties and bonding characteristics, leading to weak adhesion and separation. To check the quality of your 3D &nbsp;printing filament, simply measure the filament’s diameter at various points using calipers and check for visible defects or inconsistencies.&nbsp;</p><h2 dir="ltr">Key Takeaways</h2><p dir="ltr">By following these various steps (one by one because sometimes a single adjustment will solve the problem!) you should be able to overcome delamination and ensure that your prints benefit from strong bonds between layers. Here’s a rapid summary of what we covered:</p><ul><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">3D printing layer separation occurs when printed layers of plastic do not fuse together properly during the printing process, causing weaknesses in the 3D printed structure.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Increasing the print temperature can fix delamination by improving filament flow and ensuring that layers are sufficiently melted to bond together.&nbsp;</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Build up in the 3D printer nozzle can cause under-extrusion and lead to delamination. Clean your nozzle regularly to avoid this problem.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">Adjusting the print speed can also improve delamination: a slower print speed will result in stronger adhesion between layers and a stronger final part.</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr">&nbsp;Other factors, like flow rate, fan speed, and nozzle size can also impact the quality of inter-layer bonding.</p></li></ul><p dir="ltr">By applying the information in this article, 3D printing users can solve the issue of delamination and reduce the risk of it happening again. This ultimately will help you to achieve more consistent and reliable 3D prints.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)</h2><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: What is layer separation in 3D printing?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Layer separation occurs when the individual layers of a 3D printed object fail to bond or adhere properly, resulting in visible gaps, cracks, or complete separation between layers.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: What causes layer separation?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Layer separation can be caused by various things, including incorrect temperature, flow rate, speed, and cooling settings, or issues with the printer nozzle or filament.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How can I prevent layer separation?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: To prevent layer separation, optimize print settings for the specific material, ensure proper material storage and handling, and perform regular maintenance and cleaning on the 3D printer nozzle.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Can layer separation be fixed after a print is completed?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: In most cases, layer separation cannot be effectively fixed after a print is completed, particularly when it has a functional application. However, in some cases it is possible to minimize the signs of delamination in a 3D print. For example, applying a coating (such as <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/pla-smoothing" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">an epoxy resin</a>) will help smooth out the surface of the print. When using ABS, acetone can also help soften the layers and help fuse them together.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Can layer separation influence the strength and integrity of a 3D printed part?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Yes, layer separation can significantly impact the structural integrity, dimensional accuracy, and overall functionality of a 3D print, making it unsuitable for functional applications or end-use products.</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] Agarwal KM, Shubham P, Bhatia D, Sharma P, Vaid H, Vajpeyi R. Analyzing the impact of print parameters on dimensional variation of ABS specimens printed using fused deposition modelling (FDM). Sensors International. 2022 Jan 1;3:100149</p><p dir="ltr">[2] &nbsp;Zuza, Mikolas. How to Build a simple, cheap enclosure for your 3D printer [Internet]. Prusa Research, April 13, 2018. Available from: <a href="https://blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/" target="_blank">https://blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/</a>&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">[3] Layer Separation and Splitting [Internet] Simplify 3D, 2022. Available from: &nbsp;<a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/layer-separation-and-splitting/" target="_blank">https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/layer-separation-and-splitting/</a></p>

Adjust temperature, speed, and cooling settings to fix delamination

The causes behind 3D printing delamination and eight ways to improve inter-layer adhesion for stronger 3D prints.

How to Fix 3D Printing Layer Separation (AKA Delamination)

The infill percentage setting in slicer programs controls how dense the internal geometry of a part will be.

Understanding the basics of infill densities and patterns will allow you to optimize your final 3D print and printing process efficiency.

Infill Percentage: Best Infill for TPU 3D Prints and More

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Cura tree supports were developed as an alternative to traditional linear supports, enabling geometries with overhangs and steep angles to be 3D printed while achieving greater printing efficiency in terms of print times, material usage, and post-processing. This innovative feature, integrated into the popular Cura slicing software, generates organic, tree-like structures that support certain elements of the 3D print throughout the printing process. In this article, we’ll be covering everything there is to know about Cura tree supports, including how they compare to normal supports, important tree support settings, pros and cons, and when tree supports are most beneficial.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Why do you need support structures?</h2><p dir="ltr">3D printing is unique among manufacturing processes for its ability to produce incredibly complex shapes. Some 3D printing processes, like Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), however, need a bit of help sometimes to achieve these intricate geometries. Some support, if you will.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">3D printers struggle to print certain features, like overhangs and bridges, because the filament is not adequately reinforced and will succumb to gravity if it is printed in mid-air. That’s where support structures come in. Supports are automatically generated in slicer software programs such as Ultimaker Cura and enable 3D printers to produce parts with features like overhangs and bridges.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Overhangs are shapes on a <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-make-a-3d-model-for-printing" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">3D model</a> that jut out at angles of over 45°. Bridges, for their part, are horizontal structures that typically connect two vertical structures. Supports are required to print both these elements so that the filament layers are supported as they are extruded.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Linear supports vs Tree supports</h2><p dir="ltr">There are two main types of support structure: linear supports—also known as normal supports—and tree supports. Linear supports are vertical structures that are printed straight up to support overhangs and bridges. This type of support structure reinforces the entire overhang area and typically consists of a solid shell and infill.[2]</p><p dir="ltr">Tree supports, the subject of this article, are more organic in shape, appearing to grow like tree branches around the 3D model to support overhangs and bridges. One of the defining characteristics of tree supports is that they are printed wider at the base of the model and gradually taper off, providing adequate support while minimizing contact points with the 3D printed part. Tree supports are also hollow, consisting primarily of a shell, which is easy to remove post-printing.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/cura-support-settings" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">Cura Support Settings Explained</a></strong></p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 626px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjU0NTg0NDgzMzY4LXRyZWVfc3VwcG9ydC5qcGciLCJlZGl0cyI6eyJyZXNpemUiOnsid2lkdGgiOjk1MCwiZml0IjoiY292ZXIifX19" width="624" height="416" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="Ultimaker 3D printer while 3D model"><span class="fr-inner">Unlike linear supports, tree supports wrap around the 3D model, providing support directly where needed.</span></span></span></p><h2 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">How Cura Tree Supports Work</h2><p dir="ltr">In the FDM 3D printing process, a print head extrudes melted thermoplastic filament onto a build platform. As the material is deposited, it begins to solidify. This is repeated layer by layer until an object is built up. In general, supports are needed when the layers of the print do not have enough support from the layers underneath them.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Cura tree supports differ from regular supports in that they can be printed at different angles, rather than straight up. This enables them to adapt to the printed model’s geometry easily. In other words, they are printed around the model. Cura tree supports ultimately provide direct reinforcement to overhangs using the tips of their branches. This unique approach not only provides adequate support, it also results in fewer contact points between the support structure and the printed model. In the end, this makes the tree supports easier to remove than more traditional linear supports. &nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">The algorithm that generates tree supports in Cura takes several factors into account when creating the support geometry. Specifically, it considers load distribution (branches are positioned to evenly distribute the weight of the supported structure), self-supporting angles (branches are generated at angles that allow them to be self-supporting), and minimal contact (the algorithm minimizes the contact points for optimal post-processing).</p><p dir="ltr">In Cura slicer software, tree supports can be activated under “Support” settings. There are also several parameters related to tree supports that you can adjust. Below are some of the key Cura tree support settings you should know about[1]:</p><div dir="ltr" align="left"><table><tbody><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Support Placement</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">With this setting, makers can choose between two options: “touching build plate” and “everywhere”. Touching build plate will generate supports only using the build platform as a base. Everywhere, on the other hand, will generate supports from both the build plate and the 3D model, if needed.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Support overhang angle</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Setting your support overhang angle will determine at what degree overhangs will require a support structure. All FDM 3D printers can print overhangs of up to 45° without supports, and many can handle angles of up to 50-55°.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Support branch angle</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">This setting is unique to tree supports. The support branch angle controls the maximum angle that tree supports will be printed at. A higher value for the support branch angle will result in more freedom for branches to be printed around the model (this means fewer contact points). That said, increasing the support branch angle too much can lead to less supportive branches. A lower support branch angle will result in more vertical branches that are more stable.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Support branch distance</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">This parameter determines how far the top of the support branches will be to the edge of the overhang. A lower value for branch distance will result in more contact points, which will provide greater reinforcement and increase the quality of the overhang. However, a smaller branch distance can also make the tree support branches harder to remove.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Support branch diameter</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">This setting controls the minimum width of the branch. In other words, how small the branch diameter will be at its thinnest point. A smaller branch diameter will reduce the amount of material usage, but a wider branch diameter will provide greater stability.</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Collision resolution</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr">This <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/ender-3-v2-max-speed" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">slicer setting</a> for tree supports ensures that the supports don’t intersect with the 3D model when they are generated. 0.2 mm is the default collision resolution setting in Cura. Increasing the value can lead to faster printing times, but lower quality tree supports.</p></td></tr></tbody></table></div><h2 dir="ltr">The Pros of Cura Tree Supports</h2><p dir="ltr">Cura tree supports have several benefits, which have made them increasingly popular amongst makers and professional 3D printing users. Let’s take a look at some of the main benefits tree supports offer.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Less material waste</h3><p dir="ltr">Open source Cura software developers first came up with tree supports as a way to reduce the amount of material waste generated by supports. They were successful in this effort: tree supports use significantly less material than standard supports because they are almost entirely hollow and because they taper in width. This helps to reduce material waste and material costs.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Faster printing time</h3><p dir="ltr">As an added bonus of using less material, tree supports are also faster to print than conventional support structures. Cura software will tell you how much material supports will use and how long a print will take, so you can directly compare standard and tree supports for a given print job. You can also compare the material usage in the same way.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Smoother surface finish</h3><p dir="ltr">Another reason to use tree supports is that they can improve the surface finish quality of 3D prints compared to traditional supports. This benefit is owed to the simple fact that tree supports are designed to minimize contact points with the 3D model. In some cases, the only touch points between the tree supports and the 3D printed object will be the tips of the branches that support the overhangs. Tree supports therefore require minimal post-processing and shouldn’t affect the quality of intricate or finely detailed 3D prints.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Easy support removal</h3><p dir="ltr">Easy support removal is another consequence of having minimal contact points between the tree supports and the 3D printed model. Normal supports can sometimes bond to the 3D printed model making removal challenging, even requiring tools like pliers or cutters to take them off. Tree supports on the other hand consist of a shell around the print with minimal contact points. In most cases, this means they can be peeled off the final print by hand without significant risk of damage.</p><p><strong>Recommended reading:<a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/improving-your-3d-printing-success-rate-with-ultimaker-cura" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">&nbsp;Improving your 3D printing success rate with Ultimaker Cura</a></strong></p><p dir="ltr"><strong><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width: 302px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjU0NTg0NDM0ODI5LXRyZWUtc3VwcG9ydC1leGFtcGxlLnBuZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt="Cura 3D model with tree supports"><span class="fr-inner" spellcheck="false">Tree supports are generally easier to remove than linear supports because they have fewer contact points. Image Credits:&nbsp;<a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012612779-Support-settings" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">Ultimaker</a></span></span></span></strong></p><h2 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">The Cons of Cura Tree Supports</h2><p dir="ltr">Now that we’ve seen the benefits of using tree supports, let’s take a look at the potential downsides.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Longer slicing times</h3><p dir="ltr">The main disadvantage of using tree supports is that the support structures require more processing power than traditional linear supports. Because tree supports have a more complex geometry than linear supports, they take longer to generate in slicing software. This can minimize the benefit of faster support printing times (though rarely negate it).</p><h3 dir="ltr">Less suitable for soluble PVA supports</h3><p dir="ltr">Due to their complexity in shape and geometry, tree supports can also present a challenge if you are using a <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/using-soluble-3d-printer-filament-to-build-support-structures" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">soluble support material such as PVA</a>. PVA is a harder material to print compared to PLA or ABS and some 3D printers can therefore struggle to achieve the finer shapes that characterize the tops of tree supports. Cura therefore recommends using its tree support function primarily for non-soluble support materials.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Cura tree support pros and cons summary:</h3><div dir="ltr" align="left"><table><tbody><tr><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Cura Tree Support Pros</strong></p></td><td><p dir="ltr"><strong>Cura Tree Support Cons</strong></p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">Less material waste</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Longer slicing times</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">Faster printing times</p></td><td><p dir="ltr">Less suitable for soluble supports</p></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">Smoother surface finish</p></td><td><br></td></tr><tr><td><p dir="ltr">Easier post-processing</p></td><td><br></td></tr></tbody></table></div><h2 dir="ltr">When to use Cura Tree supports?</h2><p dir="ltr">While the disadvantages of Cura tree supports are minimal compared to the advantages, there is still a time and a place to use them. In some cases, standard 3D printing supports may be more beneficial. In others, tree supports are the clear way to go. There are three main scenarios where tree supports make the most sense.</p><h3 dir="ltr">If visual quality is a priority</h3><p dir="ltr">First, if you are printing an object where the visual quality is of the utmost importance, tree supports are highly beneficial. Because tree supports are designed to have fewer connection points to the 3D printed part, removal is easy and results in fewer marks or imperfections on the part’s surface.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">If you want to reduce material waste</h3><p dir="ltr">Second, if you are trying to consume less filament, tree supports will generally use less material because they are hollow shells. If you need greater stability, you can also choose to print tree supports with a low infill density. Using less material for supports will help you minimize material waste and cut back on material costs in the long run.</p><h3 dir="ltr">If tight tolerances are needed</h3><p dir="ltr">Third, tree supports are highly beneficial if you are printing a component that requires tight tolerances. Because regular supports sometimes need to be cut off, makers need to sand down the support remnants from the part surface. Sanding and other post-processing steps can influence the part’s dimensional accuracy. Tree supports on the other hand require minimal post-processing (often no post-processing) and can be removed without affecting the part’s tolerances.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-remove-supports-from-3d-prints" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">How to Remove Supports from 3D Prints</a></strong></p><h2 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h2><p dir="ltr">Whether you are a beginner or experienced maker, it is important to know what features are at your disposal when it comes to 3D printing. Still a relatively new option in Cura slicer, tree supports provide many advantages that makers may not yet be familiar with. With the knowledge in this article, however, you should be prepared to make the most out of automated tree supports and their print settings.</p><p dir="ltr">As 3D printing continues to evolve, experimenting with tree supports in your next project can unlock new levels of creativity and efficiency. Whether you're working on intricate prototypes, custom parts, or artistic creations, incorporating tree supports can significantly enhance your 3D printing outcomes.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)</h2><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Are Cura tree supports compatible with all 3D printers?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Cura tree supports are compatible with most FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printers. However, it's always best to check your printer's specifications and ensure you're using the latest version of Cura for optimal compatibility.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Can tree supports be used with all types of filaments?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Tree supports work well with most common filaments like PLA, ABS, and PETG. For less common 3D printing materials, it's recommended to test and adjust settings accordingly. Some flexible filaments may require special considerations and soluble filaments like PVA are generally not recommended for use with tree supports.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How do I optimize tree support settings for very small, detailed prints?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: For small, detailed prints, consider reducing the branch diameter and increasing the branch density. Adjust the "Support Roof" settings to ensure proper support for fine details. Experiment with different overhang angles to find the optimal balance between support and print quality.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Are tree supports suitable for large-scale prints?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: Yes, tree supports are excellent for large-scale prints. They can significantly reduce material usage and print time compared to traditional supports. For very large prints, consider increasing the branch diameter and adjusting the branch angle for added stability.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: How do tree supports compare to traditional supports in terms of print time?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: In most cases, tree supports reduce print time compared to traditional supports. The exact time savings depend on the model's complexity. However, the slicer generating time for tree supports is slower than for linear supports.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Q: Are there any specific model orientations that work best with tree supports?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">A: While tree supports are versatile, orienting your model to minimize overhangs can optimize their effectiveness. For mechanical parts, consider orientations that align the broadest flat surfaces with the build plate.</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] Tree supports: What are they and how do they work? [Internet]. Ultimaker, 2024. Available from:&nbsp;<a href="https://ultimaker.com/learn/tree-supports-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work/" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">https://ultimaker.com/learn/tree-supports-what-are-they-and-how-do-they-work/</a>&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">[2] UltiMaker Cura - Support settings [Internet]. Ultimaker, March 3, 2024. Available from:&nbsp;<a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417606331" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417606331</a>&nbsp;</p>

Cura tree supports are a relatively new feature that offers several benefits, like less material consumption and easier support removal

Everything you need to know about Cura tree supports, including how they work, key slicer settings, their pros and cons, and when to use them.

Your Guide to Cura Tree Supports

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">If your 3D prints are coming off the print bed with oozing or drooping layers, blobs, or signs of stringing, there is a good chance you are dealing with over extrusion. Over extrusion is a common problem in fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing that can have a negative impact on the structural integrity and quality of your prints. If left untreated, over extrusion can also eventually lead to 3D printer nozzle jams.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">There are many things that can cause over extrusion in 3D printing—from thermoplastic filament settings and print temperature to flow rate parameters. Fortunately, there are also straightforward solutions to fix over extrusion. Keep reading this article to understand what over extrusion is, what causes it, and most importantly how to fix it.</p><h2 dir="ltr">What is Over Extrusion?&nbsp;</h2><p dir="ltr">Over extrusion is simply the phenomenon of too much filament coming out of your 3D printer nozzle onto the build platform. The issue is related to your 3D printer extruder’s flow rate and can lead to many problems, like oozing, blobs, and stringing, as well as poor overall print quality.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Additionally, over extrusion can cause dimensional inaccuracies, as the surplus material can distort the shape and size of the printed object. This can be particularly problematic for prints that require high precision, such as mechanical parts or functional prototypes. Furthermore, over extrusion can lead to structural weaknesses in the printed object. The excess material can create internal stresses within the print, which can lead to cracks and fractures under load. Notably, over extrusion is not exclusively related to specific hardware or materials: it can happen with any FDM 3D printer and filament.</p><p dir="ltr">It is very important to identify when your 3D printer is over-extruding and to fix the problem as quickly as possible. This is not only because over extrusion can lead to wasted time and materials; it can also cause your <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-clean-3d-printer-nozzle" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">3D printer nozzle to become clogged</a>. As you can imagine, this is a slightly tricker problem to tackle.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-clean-3d-printer-nozzle" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">How to Clean 3D Printer Nozzles and Prevent Clogs</a></strong></p><h2 dir="ltr">What causes Over Extrusion?</h2><p dir="ltr">When it comes to the cause of over extrusion, there are a few possible culprits, including print temperature, filament diameter inconsistencies, and incorrect flow rate calibration.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Print temperature</h3><p dir="ltr">One of the most common reasons for over extrusion is that your 3D printer’s temperature settings are too high for the type of filament you are using. If the filament is melting too quickly, it is harder for the extruder to control the flow rate, which leads to over extrusion and dreaded oozing.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Filament diameter</h3><p dir="ltr">Another contributing factor to over extrusion is filament diameter.[1] For example, if your filament is too narrow for the nozzle in question, the filament will flow through it too quickly. Similarly, if the filament diameter slicer settings are off, it can lead to incorrect flow rates and over extrusion.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Flow rate calibration</h3><p dir="ltr">This leads us to our next cause of over extrusion: incorrect flow rate calibration. Flow rate indicates the amount of filament that is extruded per second and it is determined by a combination of factors, including printing speed, nozzle size, and <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-nozzle-size" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">layer height</a>. You can control the flow rate in slicer programs, usually under “extrusion multiplier” settings. If the flow rate is too high (i.e. too much filament is being pushed through the nozzle) it can lead to over extrusion and poor print quality. Incorrect flow rates can also lead to under extrusion, another common problem in FDM 3D printing.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/under-extrusion" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">How to fix under extrusion: Maintenance and print settings</a></strong></p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 627px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUyNzc1NTg5NDc5LWZpbGFtZW50LmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="Purple Filament Spool"><span class="fr-inner" spellcheck="false">Flow rate controls how much filament is fed through the 3D printer nozzle. If the flow rate is too high, it can cause over extrusion.</span></span></span></p><h2 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">How to fix Over Extrusion</h2><p dir="ltr">If you are encountering over extrusion, the good news is that there are reliable ways to troubleshoot the problem. Let’s take a look:</p><h3 dir="ltr">Calibrate filament diameter&nbsp;</h3><p dir="ltr">If you are seeing the signs of over extrusion in your 3D prints, the first step should be to calibrate your 3D printer flow rate with an accurate filament diameter. There are a few standard filament sizes available on the market: 1.75mm, 2.85 mm, and 3 mm. First, make sure that your print settings are set to the right filament size so that the default flow rate will be in a more accurate range. If you are still having flow rate problems, you may have to manually check the filament diameter.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Even though most filament suppliers specify the filament diameter, there can be discrepancies in the filament’s actual measurements. By using digital calipers, you can measure the diameter of a length of filament at various points (jot down at least five values along about 20 inches of filament). From there, calculate the average measurement and input it into your slicer settings under machine parameters or filament settings. For instance, while you might be using a 1.75 mm filament, the average diameter might be closer to 1.74 mm. Having an accurate filament size can make for a more accurate default flow setting.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust extrusion multiplier settings</h3><p dir="ltr">If extrusion issues persist after resetting your filament diameter settings, it might be a matter of tweaking your printer’s extrusion multiplier value. Extrusion multiplier settings control the flow rate for filament. Typically, the default extrusion multiplier value is set at 100%. Because over extrusion is a consequence of a high flow rate, you can try lowering the value by increments of between 2.5% and 5%.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">This process might require a little bit of trial and error. In each test print, you’ll be looking for improved dimensional accuracy and print quality. You can also measure your filament to determine how much you need to adjust the extrusion multiplier settings. In one tutorial, Frank’s 3D Shop suggests measuring 120 mm along the filament from the top of the extruder. Mark the filament at the 120 mm line. Next, program the 3D printer to extrude 100 mm of filament. When that’s done, remeasure the filament from the top of the extruder to the marked line. If the 3D printer extruded 104 mm, you should lower the flow rate by 4%. [2]</p><p dir="ltr">It can also be helpful to use your calipers to measure features of your test prints—such as wall thickness—to determine how accurate your prints are. For example, if your wall thickness is set to 1 mm and the calipers report 1.5 mm, try lowering the extrusion multiplier value again. In its slicer software, Simplify3D suggests using an extrusion multiplier value of about 0.9 (90%) for PLA and a value nearer to 1.0 (100%) for ABS.[3] In Cura, the extrusion multiplier settings can be found under “Flow” parameters.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 627px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUyNzc1NjcxMTQ0LTNkX3ByaW50X2RpbWVuc2lvbnMuanBnIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="Caliper measuring 3D printed part"><span class="fr-inner" spellcheck="false">You can use calipers to measure the diameter of filament as well as the accuracy of printed parts.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Lower the print temperature</h3><p dir="ltr">Finding the right print temperature in FDM 3D printing is critical for many reasons, but the “right” temperature varies from filament to filament. For example, PLA filament prints at a much lower temperature than ABS filament. If you’re dealing with the over extrusion problem and it hasn’t been fixed by flow rate calibration, it is possible that your printing temperature is set too high.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">An overheated hot end will melt the filament too quickly, which makes it harder for the 3D printer to control the rate of extrusion. To solve this issue, first ensure that the printing temperature corresponds with the type of filament. Printing temperatures for <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/pla-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">PLA</a> should be in the range of 190°C and 220°C, while <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">ABS</a> prints within the range of 230°C and 260°C, and <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/petg-temperature-considerations-nozzle-temperature-heated-bed-cooling" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">PETG</a> prints within the range of about 210°C and 250°C‎. From there, simply reduce the printing temperature by intervals of no more than 5°C in the 3D printer menu. This should slow the rate of melting and help solve over extrusion. Be careful not to lower the printing temperature too much though, as that can lead to under extrusion.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Preventing Over Extrusion</h2><p dir="ltr">Once you’ve fixed over extrusion, the next step is to prevent it from happening in the future. This&nbsp;involves a combination of regular 3D printer maintenance, proper printer setup, and the use of good-quality filaments. By taking these proactive measures, you can ensure that your 3D prints are consistently of high quality and free from over extrusion issues.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Regular maintenance</h3><p dir="ltr">Regular maintenance of your 3D printer is key to preventing over extrusion. This includes cleaning the extruder nozzle, checking the extruder gear for wear and tear, and ensuring that the printer's belts and pulleys are properly tensioned and aligned. By performing regular maintenance, you can identify and address potential issues before they lead to over extrusion.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Proper printer setup</h3><p dir="ltr">Properly setting up your 3D printer is another step in preventing over extrusion. This involves accurately inputting the filament diameter, setting the correct extrusion multiplier, and optimizing slicer settings such as layer height, print speed, and infill density before printing. By ensuring that your printer is set up correctly, you can minimize the risk of over extrusion and failed prints, which saves both time and material costs.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Good quality filaments&nbsp;</h3><p dir="ltr">Using quality filaments can also help prevent over extrusion. High-quality filaments typically have more consistent diameters and material properties, which can reduce the likelihood of over extrusion. Additionally, using a high-quality extruder and hotend can ensure that the filament is extruded consistently and accurately, further reducing the risk of over extrusion.</p><p dir="ltr">By implementing these preventive measures, you can minimize the occurrence of over extrusion in your future prints, resulting in higher quality and more reliable 3D printed objects.</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width: 302px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNzA0OTAyMzI1MjMyLWZpbGFtZW50LmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt="Filament feeding into 3D printer"><span class="fr-inner">The quality of filament can influence the success of a print job.</span></span></span></p><h2 dir="ltr">Conclusion</h2><p dir="ltr">Now that you have the fundamentals to deal with over extrusion, it shouldn’t be a problem if it happens to you. By checking your filament settings (including filament type and diameter), print temperature, and flow rate settings, you can stop over extrusion in its tracks and ensure that your prints are of the highest quality. Other factors like printing speed and layer height can also influence the quality and accuracy of your prints. As a general rule, lower print speeds and smaller layer heights result in higher resolution prints. To prevent over extrusion from happening in the future, it’s essential to conduct regular 3D printer maintenance, use the correct print settings, and to use good quality filament.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">If you’ve tried all these fixes for over extrusion but are still suffering from issues such as <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-stringing" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">stringing</a>, it could be due to other issues, like retraction settings or wet filament. We can help you through that too.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-stringing" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">3D Printer Stringing: How To Fix It</a></strong></p><h2 dir="ltr">Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)</h2><h3 dir="ltr">Q: What is over extrusion in 3D printing?</h3><p dir="ltr">A: Over extrusion in 3D printing occurs when the printer extrudes more filament than necessary. This can lead to prints that lack detail and are affected by drooping and stringing. Over extrusion can be caused by a variety of factors, including incorrect temperature settings, improper filament diameter, and incorrect extrusion multiplier settings.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Q: What are the signs of over extrusion?</h3><p dir="ltr">A: Signs of over extrusion include oozing, stringing, as well as prints that are droopy, uneven, and lack detail. You may also notice excess filament on the print bed or around the nozzle.&nbsp;</p><h3 dir="ltr">Q: How do I fix over extrusion?</h3><p dir="ltr">A: Fixing over extrusion involves adjusting the filament diameter, correcting the extrusion multiplier, and optimizing slicer settings. If over extrusion continues to occur after these adjustments, it may be necessary to replace the hotend.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Q: How can I prevent over extrusion?</h3><p dir="ltr">A: Preventing over extrusion involves a combination of proper printer setup and the use of high-quality filaments. Proper printer setup involves accurately inputting the filament diameter, setting the correct extrusion multiplier, and optimizing slicer settings. Using quality filaments can also help prevent over extrusion due to more consistent diameters.</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] Cardona C, Curdes AH, Isaacs AJ. Effects of filament diameter tolerances in fused filament fabrication. IU Journal of Undergraduate Research. 2016 May 31;2(1):44-7. Available from: <a href="https://doi.org/10.14434/iujur.v2i1.20917" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">https://doi.org/10.14434/iujur.v2i1.20917</a>&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">[2] Frank’s 3D Shop, October 17, 2017. “Extrusion Problems” [Internet] Available from: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvTiOxRwEtc" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvTiOxRwEtc</a></p><p dir="ltr">[3] Simplify3D, 2022. “Under-Extrusion” [Internet] Available from: <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/under-extrusion/" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/under-extrusion/</a>&nbsp;</p>

Some of the symptoms of over extrusion are oozing layers, blobs, and stringing

Selecting the right filament settings, print temperature, and flow rate can help solve the common problem of over extrusion in FDM 3D printing.

Dealing with Over Extrusion in 3D Printing

A clean nozzle is vital to achieving high-quality 3D prints

Understanding the causes behind 3D printer nozzle clogs and learning the best ways to clean nozzles for superior 3D printing results.


How to Clean 3D Printer Nozzles and Prevent Clogs

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">During FDM 3D printing, the printer extrudes filament and deposits molten material in a sequence of shapes. The printhead is always either depositing material — to lay down a section of the print — or holding back material in order to move from one area to another.</p><p dir="ltr">In practice, however, the printhead isn’t always capable of holding back material. Because the nozzle of a printer contains an open aperture — it doesn’t “close up” in between extrusions — it is susceptible to an issue known as <strong>oozing</strong>. This is when small amounts of material accidentally leak out from the nozzle and onto the build area, negatively affecting print quality.</p><p dir="ltr">Oozing can then lead to a related issue known as 3D printer <strong>stringing</strong>. 3D printer stringing occurs when an oozing printhead has to make lots of travel movements, skipping from one area of the build to another. When the oozing printhead travels a lot, the oozed material forms itself into many fine strands, creating what looks like cobwebs or whiskers over the surface of the printed parts. High-temperature materials like <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/petg-print-settings" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">PETG</a> are especially susceptible to 3D printer stringing, but different filaments like PLA and ABS can also experience it.</p><p dir="ltr">This article looks at the most effective ways to stop 3D printer stringing. It covers simple preventative maintenance steps, as well as the best <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/ender-3-v2-max-speed" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">slicer settings</a>.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Material Considerations for Preventing Stringing</h2><h3>Filament Selection</h3><p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Different 3D printing materials have varying properties that can influence their propensity for 3D printer stringing. The quality of the filament can also impact stringing, with low-quality filaments potentially contributing to the issue due to inconsistent diameters, impurities, or poor adhesion properties.</p><p dir="ltr">When choosing a filament, consider its properties and how they may affect stringing. For example, materials like PETG and TPU are more prone to stringing due to their higher viscosity and flexibility compared to PLA or ABS.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Filament Drying</h3><p dir="ltr">One way to prevent 3D printer stringing is to ensure the printing material is in good condition. Filament that has absorbed too much moisture can cause numerous problems, including <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/under-extrusion" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">under-extrusion</a>, blobs, nozzle jams, weak parts, and stringing.[1]</p><p dir="ltr">Wet filament can cause stringing because the extra moisture absorbed by the material ends up evaporating within the printer nozzle, causing a buildup of pressure that forces out the molten plastic in unwanted places.</p><p dir="ltr">To prevent this issue, filament should be stored in a sealed container with a desiccant. It can also be dried out with a dedicated filament dryer, a food dehydrator, or an oven.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/how-to-dry-filament" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid"><em>How to dry filament</em></a></strong></p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width: 302px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUxMTQyMzU1MDAzLURlc2ljY2FudF9zaWxpY2FfZ2VsLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt="Desiccant"><span class="fr-inner">Keeping filament dry can prevent stringing</span></span></span></p><h2 dir="ltr">Slicer Settings to Reduce Stringing</h2><h3 dir="ltr">Retraction Settings</h3><p dir="ltr">Printer maintenance is one way of troubleshooting 3D printer stringing, but another common problem that leads to stringing is incorrect slicer settings. These settings can be easily adjusted in slicing software like Cura or Simplify3D.</p><p dir="ltr"><a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/cura-retraction-settings" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">Adjusting retraction settings</a> is one way to fix stringing during the FDM printing process.[2] Retraction is when the nozzle pulls back a small amount of filament before it travels (moves to another part of the build area without actively depositing material). By pulling the filament deeper inside the nozzle, the melted plastic is less likely to seep out. A common test print known as a stringing tower is one way to test out the effect of retraction settings.</p><p dir="ltr">To prevent stringing, try adjusting the following retraction settings:</p><ul><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr"><strong>Retraction distance</strong>: In increments of 1 mm, increase the amount of filament retracted into the nozzle</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr"><strong>Retraction speed</strong>: In increment of 5 mm/s, increase the speed at which the nozzle retracts the filament</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr"><strong>Minimum travel distance</strong>: In increments of 1 mm, decrease the minimum travel distance required to enable retraction</p></li><li dir="ltr"><p dir="ltr"><strong>Vertical lift</strong>: This retraction setting, called "Z-Hop" in Cura slicer, instructs the printhead to move vertically during travel to avoid dragging along the surface of the part. Disabling this setting can reduce stringing.</p></li></ul><p><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width: 302px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUxMTQyNDA4MjQ1LWhvdGVuZF9ub3p6bGUuanBnIiwiZWRpdHMiOnsicmVzaXplIjp7IndpZHRoIjo5NTAsImZpdCI6ImNvdmVyIn19fQ==" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt="Printer nozzle"><span class="fr-inner">Some stringing issues can be solved via retraction</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr">Print Temperature</h3><p dir="ltr">Runny filament is more likely to ooze out of the 3D printer nozzle than viscous filament, so using a lower temperature in the hotend (and melting the filament slightly less) is one way to tackle 3D printer stringing.[3]</p><p dir="ltr">Of course, using a low temperature can lead to problems of its own, particularly under-extrusion, so it is important to attain a balance between good material flow and prevention of stringing. Try reducing the print temperature in increments of 5 °C in order to find the right temperature.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Temperature Towers</strong></p><p id="isPasted">Using a temperature tower — a 3D printable model designed to be printed at increasing or decreasing temperatures along the Z-axis in order to indicate the ideal printing temperature — is a practical method for reducing 3D print stringing.</p><p>While you can design your own tower, there are plenty of downloadable models available for <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">download</a> that come with <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/your-guide-to-3d-printing-g-code" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">g-code</a> for instructing the printer to gradually adjust the printing temperature while it prints.&nbsp;</p><p>After the print is finished, carefully examine the temperature tower. Each section represents the filament's behavior at different temperatures, showcasing various levels of stringing and print quality. During your examination, identify the segment of the temperature tower where stringing is minimal and print quality is optimal. Adjust your 3D printer's nozzle temperature to match this value.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/petg-temperature-considerations-nozzle-temperature-heated-bed-cooling" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid"><em>PETG temperature considerations: Nozzle temperature, heated bed &amp; cooling</em></a></strong></p><h3 dir="ltr">Print Speed</h3><p dir="ltr">Adjusting printer speed settings is another way to prevent 3D printer stringing. The two key parameters here are print speed, which determines the speed at which the printhead moves while it deposits material, and travel speed, the speed at which the printhead moves over empty space while it is not depositing any material.</p><p dir="ltr">Print speed does not have a huge impact on stringing. However, it is a parameter closely tied to print temperature: higher print speeds require higher temperatures in order to melt the material quickly enough. Since you may have already reduced your print temperature to prevent stringing, your maximum print speed may be reduced.</p><p dir="ltr">A more relevant speed setting is travel speed. Slow travel speeds can cause stringing, because a slow-moving printhead has more time to dangle an oozing nozzle over the parts below. By increasing travel speed, the nozzle has less time moving through open space and fewer opportunities to drip excess material onto the printed parts.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Wipe Distance</h3><p dir="ltr">To minimize stringing in 3D prints, adjusting the wipe distance is another option. In Cura, you can modify this through the Outer Wall Wipe Distance parameter.</p><p dir="ltr">Typically used to conceal seams, the wipe distance setting also aids in reducing stringing. Wipe distance signifies how far the nozzle moves at a layer's end without extruding material. By setting it to 0.4 mm or higher, excess material is wiped off the wall, preventing oozing and stringing.</p><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Combing</h3><p dir="ltr">Combing mode can help reduce stringing in 3D prints. This setting, available in some slicers, alters the path of the print head during non-printing moves to minimize the need for retractions. Instead of retracting the filament and moving directly between two points, the print head follows the contours of the printed object, avoiding crossing over empty spaces where possible.</p><p dir="ltr">By keeping the print head within the boundaries of the printed object, combing mode reduces the likelihood of oozing and stringing during non-printing moves. To enable and configure combing mode, consult your slicer software's documentation or settings menu. Some slicers offer different combing modes, such as "All," "No Skin," or "Within Infill," which provide varying levels of combing based on the specific needs of your print.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Other Ways to Reduce Stringing</h2><h3 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Nozzle Maintenance</h3><p dir="ltr">Another common cause of 3D printer stringing is a clogged nozzle. Material passing through the FDM printer nozzle can occasionally get stuck or leave residue, and this residue must be regularly removed to ensure smooth operation of the hotend.</p><p dir="ltr">There are several ways to unclog a nozzle. Suitable tools include a brass wire brush, a needle, a heat gun, or a dedicated cleaning filament. ABS residue can also be removed by immersing the nozzle in acetone.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Post-Processing</h3><p><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width: 302px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjk2OTI3NzYwMjkyLWhlYXRfZ3VuLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fic fr-dib" alt="heat gun"><span class="fr-inner">Using a heat gun is a fast way to remove plastic residue caused by stringing</span></span></span></p><p dir="ltr">Post-processing techniques such as sanding, polishing, and chemical smoothing can be used to remove the plastic residue left by stringing.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Manual Stringing Removal</strong></p><p dir="ltr">The plastic residue stuck on the surface of a print can often be removed manually with a knife or pliers. Small bits of material that cannot be removed in this way can be removed later with a more precise method.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Sanding</strong></p><p dir="ltr">Using sandpaper is another way to remove stringing residue, especially small protrusions that cannot easily be removed using a knife or pliers. Apply polish after sanding to achieve a smooth finish.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Hairdryer</strong></p><p dir="ltr">Using a heat gun or a simple hairdryer is a fast and simple way to remove thin webs of plastic residue. Often, the heat will cause the strings to ball up, allowing them to be easily removed.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading: <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-sanding" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect"><em>3D print post-processing steps: supports, sanding, smoothing, more</em></a></strong></p><h2 dir="ltr">Key Takeaways</h2><p dir="ltr">Like many common 3D printer problems, stringing can be prevented with a combination of proper 3D printer maintenance and fine-tuning of slicer settings.</p><p dir="ltr">If you are struggling to identify the root cause of your 3D printer stringing, it is probably worth carrying out the physical maintenance — correctly storing filament and regularly cleaning the printer nozzle — before adjusting any slicer settings. Even if moist filament or a clogged nozzle is <em>not</em> the root cause of the stringing, carrying out these basic preventative measures is a good way to maintain print quality over future prints. Additionally, a slicer’s default settings are precisely optimized for individual print materials and typically do not require radical alteration in order to deliver good results.</p><p dir="ltr">That being said, adjustment of print parameters within the slicing software gives total control over the print process and in many cases is necessary to fix stringing. In particular, retraction and temperature settings are often the key to unlocking successful prints without oozing or stringing issues.</p><p dir="ltr">Finally, it is important to remember that stringing and other surface defects are not always critical and can often be mitigated via post-processing techniques like sanding.</p><h2 dir="ltr" id="isPasted">Frequently Asked Questions</h2><p dir="ltr"><strong>What is 3D printer stringing?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">3D printer stringing is a common issue that occurs when thin strands of filament are left behind between different parts of a printed object, creating an unwanted web-like appearance.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>How can I prevent stringing in my 3D prints?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">Preventing stringing involves adjusting print settings such as retraction, temperature, and print speed, as well as using high-quality filament, maintaining your printer, and storing filament properly.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>What is the role of retraction in preventing stringing?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">Retraction is the process of pulling the filament back slightly during non-printing moves to prevent oozing, which can cause stringing. Adjusting retraction settings can help reduce or eliminate stringing.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>How does printing temperature affect stringing?&nbsp;</strong></p><p dir="ltr">High printing temperatures can cause the filament to become more fluid, increasing the likelihood of oozing and stringing. Optimizing the printing temperature for your specific filament material can help reduce stringing.</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] Kwon S, Lee S, Kim Y, Oh Y, Lee S, Kim J, Kwon J. <a href="https://www.hindawi.com/journals/js/2020/8846466/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">A Filament supply system capable of remote monitoring and automatic humidity control for 3D printer</a>. Journal of Sensors. 2020 Jun 24;2020.</p><p dir="ltr">[2] <a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012016280-How-to-fix-stringing" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">How to fix stringing</a> [Internet]. Ultimaker Support. [cited 2022 Apr 25].</p><p dir="ltr">[3] Paraskevoudis K, Karayannis P, Koumoulos EP. <a href="https://www.mdpi.com/2227-9717/8/11/1464" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">Real-time 3D printing remote defect detection (stringing) with computer vision and artificial intelligence</a>. Processes. 2020 Nov;8(11):1464.</p>

3D printer stringing is a common problem in FDM printing

Prints covered in plastic cobwebs? Like many FDM users, you’re probably the victim of 3D printer stringing. Fortunately, stringing can be prevented via printer maintenance and adjustment of slicer settings.

3D Printer Stringing: How To Fix It

<p dir="ltr" id="isPasted">It is always a disappointment when a finished 3D print comes off the build platform with defects and imperfections. Whether it’s a 3D print that has become unstuck from the print bed and <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-warping" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">suffered from warping</a>, or a <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-printer-stringing" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">print with stringing</a> or other surface irregularities: a ruined print amounts to wasted time and material costs. We’ve already addressed <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-not-sticking-to-print-bed-heres-the-solution" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">how to fix problems like poor first layer bed adhesion</a>—which can lead to 3D print warping—but in this article we’ll be focusing on another type of defect: 3D print blobs &amp; zits. Keep reading to understand what causes blobs and zits and how to prevent them from happening in the future.</p><h2 dir="ltr">What causes 3D printing blobs and zits?</h2><p dir="ltr">In 3D printing, blobs (also known as zits) are extrusion irregularities that appear on the surface of a 3D printed part. Blobs and zits are distinguished from other surface defects, like <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/z-banding-rooting-out-the-cause-and-fixing-the-3d-printing-defect" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">Z-banding</a>, by their inconsistency. Whereas Z-banding produces a ribbed pattern on the 3D print, blobs are quite literally bits of oozed filament that stick out from the print’s surface.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">3D print blobs &amp; zits are primarily caused by over-extrusion and the motion of the filament extruder. If, for example, you are printing a part with a circular perimeter, blobs can occur when the print head returns to its starting position. The material builds up at this point, which can result in the formation of a filament blob. Similarly, if the 3D printer extruder starts and stops several times over the course of a 3D print job, blobs and zits can also occur.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">Blobs and zits can also be caused by 3D printer nozzle retraction. In the FDM 3D printing process, retraction is a technique in which the hot end briefly pulls filament back instead of extruding it out. This method is used to reduce unwanted material extrusion, like stringing, as the print head moves to a new print location. However, if the <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/cura-retraction-settings" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-valid">retraction settings</a> on your 3D printer are not optimized, the process may actually have a negative effect, causing blobs or zits.</p><p dir="ltr">Other 3D printer settings, such as nozzle temperature, can also increase the risk of blobs. For example, if the nozzle temperature is too high, filament can come oozing out too quickly and create defects on the print surface. Printing speeds can also be a factor if they are too fast and don’t allow for sufficient cooling time between layers. In other words, if new layers are deposited before the underlying layer of filament has had time to adequately solidify, it can be squished and deformed by the weight of the layers above it.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading:</strong> <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/3d-print-warping" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">What Causes 3D Print Warping and How to Prevent It</a></p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 692px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUwOTQ1OTQzOTE0LTNkX3ByaW50aW5nLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" width="624" height="459" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="3D printer nozzle extruding red filament" style="width: 690px;"><span class="fr-inner">If the 3D printer nozzle is too hot it can cause over-extrusion resulting in blobs and zits.</span></span></span></p><h2 dir="ltr">What can you do to prevent 3D printing blobs?&nbsp;</h2><p dir="ltr">Fortunately, there are a number of ways to minimize the risk of blobs and zits in FDM 3D printing. Below are some of the key strategies you can try to prevent the 3D printing defects from occurring.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust Retraction Settings</h3><p dir="ltr">In slicer software, you can adjust retraction settings to control how much filament is pulled back into the nozzle and at what point this happens. Finding the right retraction settings can minimize material buildup either at the beginning of the print head’s path along the part perimeter or as it completes a layer and rejoins its starting position (for this, see coasting settings below).</p><p dir="ltr">In general, it is advisable to use a smaller retraction distance (this is the amount of filament pulled back into the nozzle). This is because if too much filament is retracted, air can also be pulled into the nozzle. When the printhead then goes to extrude filament, the air is heated along with the filament, which can cause extrusion inconsistencies, like blobs and bubbles on the print surface. Too little retraction, however, can lead to over-extrusion and defects like stringing and blobs and zits. It’s all about finding the sweet spot, so you might need to try out a few different retraction distance settings. The amount of retraction will also depend on the type of FDM 3D printer: systems with direct drive extruders only require a retraction distance between 0.5 mm to 2 mm. Bowden extruder systems, on the other hand, can require higher retraction values, as much as 15 mm.[1]</p><p dir="ltr">Retraction speed is also worth mentioning. This setting controls how quickly the filament is pulled back into the nozzle. If the retraction speed is too slow, your print may suffer from oozing filament. A standard range for retraction speed is between 20 mm/second and 100 mm/second.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Activate Coasting Settings</h3><p dir="ltr">Coasting is a setting built in to most 3D printing slicer programs, including Simplify3D and Cura. Coasting is often found under retraction settings and controls if the print head stops extruding filament at the end of each layer perimeter. Coasting is therefore helpful in reducing blobs or zits that are caused by filament buildup when the extruder comes back to its starting point.</p><p dir="ltr">When you activate coasting, the slicing program will essentially tell the 3D printer nozzle when to stop extruding filament—usually this will be triggered a fraction of a millimeter before the printhead completes the part’s perimeter. Coasting therefore anticipates that there will be over-extrusion when the printhead stops extruding and stops the buildup of material at these starting/ending locations. Coasting also helps to relieve pressure inside the nozzle that causes over-extrusion. It is advisable to begin with a smaller coasting distance, such as 0.2 mm, and increase the value incrementally until you no longer see blobs appearing on the part’s surface.</p><p dir="ltr"><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dii" style="width: 690px;"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://images.wevolver.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJ3ZXZvbHZlci1wcm9qZWN0LWltYWdlcyIsImtleSI6ImZyb2FsYS8xNjUwOTQ2MDg3MjYxLTNkX3ByaW50dGVyX3NldHRpbmdzLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6OTUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciJ9fX0=" width="624" height="448" class="fr-fic fr-dii" alt="3D printer extruding yellow filament"><span class="fr-inner">Coasting and retraction settings can help to minimize blobs and zits if used properly.</span></span></span></p><h3 dir="ltr">Wiping and Shell Settings</h3><p dir="ltr">Another group of <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/ender-3-v2-max-speed" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">slicer settings</a> that can help minimize blobs and zits are the wipe parameters. With wiping activated, the 3D printer will drag the nozzle at the end of every printed layer along the outer wall of the printed part to remove any material buildup. With this setting, it is common for retraction to happen simultaneously, which can help prevent blobs and zits. A typical wipe distance—the length that the nozzle will wipe along the outer wall—is 0.4 or 0.5 mm. Wiping can also help to reduce the appearance of the z-seam.</p><p dir="ltr">Because 3D print blobs and zits are primarily an aesthetic issue on the outer shell of a part, tuning your 3D printer’s shell parameters can improve the overall print quality by preventing or covering up blobs and zits. For instance, simply activating the “outer before inner wall” setting inf your slicer can improve the quality of the part’s outer shell. This setting tells the 3D printer to extrude the outer layers of a part before printing the inner structure and infill. Not only can this reduce the risk of blobs and blemishes, it can also improve the dimensional accuracy of your print.</p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust Print Temperature and Speed</h3><p dir="ltr">As we saw, a too-hot print head can lead to over-extrusion, and rapid printing speeds can lead to defects like blobs and zits due to lack of cooling. Therefore, lowering the print temperature and print speed can help to reduce the risk of blobs and zits. The temperature of your nozzle will depend on the type of filament you are 3D printing. For example, PLA filament typically requires a nozzle temperature of between 200-210 °C.[2] If blobs are still occurring in this range, try lowering the nozzle temperature in 5°C increments.</p><p dir="ltr">Reducing the print speed can also reduce the occurrence of blobs and zits. In general, a lower printing speed can improve print quality because the nozzle has more time to deposit the filament and the extruded layer has more time to cool before the next layer is applied. Try reducing your print speed by 5 to 10 mm/s to see if that helps minimize the appearance of blobs.</p><p dir="ltr"><strong>Recommended reading:</strong> <a href="https://www.wevolver.com/article/abs-bed-temperature" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-internal atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect" rel="noopener noreferrer">ABS print temperature considerations: Nozzle, bed, enclosure</a></p><h3 dir="ltr">Adjust Fan Settings</h3><p dir="ltr">In addition to finding the right print head temperature, you can also reduce the risk of 3D print blobs and zits by increasing your 3D printer’s fan speeds. (Or, if your 3D printer doesn’t have a built-in fan, it can help to integrate one.) A fan helps to regulate the temperature of the 3D printing environment and can help prevent overheating.&nbsp;</p><p dir="ltr">This, in turn, ensures that the layers of melted thermoplastic that are deposited onto the print bed are cooled and solidified at a controlled rate. Because over-extrusion and squished print layers are two potential causes of blobs and zits, increased cooling in the print chamber using fans can promote better quality prints. Of course, over-cooling your print environment can also impact layer adhesion—it’s all about finding a balance.</p><h2 dir="ltr">Key Takeaways</h2><p dir="ltr">In the end, the first step to preventing 3D printing defects like blobs and zits is to understand where they come from. Factors like temperature and slicer settings can be the cause and solution to blobs and zits. So if you’re experiencing imperfections in your 3D print’s outer shell, be sure to play with your retraction, coasting, and wipe settings, as well as adjust your nozzle print temperature. It may take some time to find the right combination of settings for a given material, so start out with a small test print. The results will be worth it!&nbsp;</p><h2 dir="ltr">References</h2><p dir="ltr">[1] Simplify3D, 2022. “Stringing or Oozing.” [Internet] <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/stringing-or-oozing/" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/stringing-or-oozing/</a> [Accessed April 20, 2022].</p><p dir="ltr">[2] Ultimaker, May 28, 2021. “How to Print with Ultimaker PLA.” [Internet] <a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011952740-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-PLA" target="_blank" class="atomseo-link atomseo-link-external atomseo-link-follow atomseo-link-highlighted atomseo-status-redirect">https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011952740-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-PLA</a> [Accessed April 21, 2022]</p>

Prevent 3D print blobs and zits by adjusting temperature and slicer settings.

Surface imperfections on a 3D print can be frustrating but they’re not insurmountable. Here is how to prevent and fix 3D print blobs and zits by adjusting 3D printer and slicer settings.

3D Printing Troubleshooting

Profiles